Now i hate Delhi and its traffic, so heading to the Bus Adda was tough enough. Getting there, by 1730, the bus was filling up fast, only a few seats left. Loaded the bikes on top, secured it tightly and came down. The conductor hearing all the commotion comes running and charges us something like Rs 800 for the luggage. We quarrel - names are called and finally settle for 350, the price of one ticket. (He was overcharging us by over 25kgs, the smarty). The bus ride was anything but comfortable, i slept though. Dinner was at a run down roadside Dhaba somewhere in UP. Now why in the world...why...would I fall for this trick once again ??? We get three cold chappatis each, with dal and are charged Rs 120...Round 2 of the days name calling starts and the owner with his goons win this time around. We chuck out the money. Many more f^
After a quick shower & breakfast, we started to cycle down to Saung, the head of the trail to Pindari. The roads are very isolated with only the odd hydel powerplant officers in their jeeps now and then. The road itself was good, the Pindar ran alongside and the hills were rejuvenating in sight and sound. I was a bit worried about the heavy luggage we were carrying and was pretty slow on those uphills. We gradually cycled/pushed to Saung and had tea. We were bombarded by these two guides who wanted us to hire their service, we acknowledged them, only to be pestered again. We pushed our bikes up to Loharkhet as it got dark and camped there for the night, next to a sheaperds cabin. It was a full moon night and the wind was blowing hard. We made tents and cooked soup, the wind keeping the fire up and running. It was a cold and isolated place,hardly a few houses down below, the forests were around and people had warned us about wild animals. A police man below the hill fired a rifle every hour - on the pretext of scaring away animals/thieves. I did not sleep properly that night. For obvious reasons.
Early next morning we hired a local guide, of our choice - not from the gangs that tormented us earlier, and settled on a charge of Rs 300 + Food expense. Nimmu, would later turn out to be a real life saver - a quiet chap who would often forsake his own comfort to keep us motivated and going. From here on it as all uphill trails till Dhakuri Pass. Tall, vibrant trees full of equally cheerful - colorful birds vied for our attention, the cool streams and the views kept the pain of climbing to a minimum. We hardly got to cycle that day, often carrying our bikes for kilometers straight up. A worriying fact was the huge rock and boulder strewn paths would be quiet dangerous when coming down. Another urgent problem was the lack of the odd eating joints, the route hardly has any, and whatever there was had already shut shop for winter. Dhakuri pass was captured just before sunset. And on came the downhills, I took it easy as I was new to this rocky slightly slippery surface, instead taking time to give sandeep a few lessons. We stayed in the lodge of a Chaishop walla and paid Rs 50 for two beds and a buffet of blankets and quilts. We spent the night admiring the shine given off by the snowy peaks all around under the moon light. We roasted potatoes discussing the good times. The only hiccup was the goat. The outdoor bathroom (aka hole in the floor room) had a goat in it. It was to be sacrificed the next day to prevent the forest ghosts from coming into the area. Somehow i felt the goat knew this and did not appreciate the shopkeepers excuse for a mutton curry. I did not sleep properly that night. For obvious reasons.
The trail to the right leading to Pindari Glacier
The third day was all down hill for over 25K to the hill town of Dwali. Then its a steep climb up to the rest house. There were patches in this route where i felt like ....uuuah I am so alive....the sounds the wind, the speed the twists in the trail...the peace, makes one cry. There were other times when I felt really ridiculous, as it was too tough to attempt. The river pindar gave us company along the way and the whole day went by with hardly a few people seen during the entire trail. Just the odd langurs, lots of birds and cattle. I saw this ohhh so cute puppy on the way, wanted to take it with me but could not as its owner might be around. Reached Dwali and stayed in a rundown PWD guest house costing us Rs 15o a night, quilts an additional 20 a piece. The cold was finally starting to cost us.
The next day riding around, I exchanged the cycle with Sandeep as he preffered mine which was an easier setup. The brake levers are the other way on this bike, and coming down a very fast descent i accidently locked the front tyres (would have been the rear wheel on mine) sending me running, then flying above the handlebars. Came down very heavily at the edge of a cliff. Sheer luck. I was really shaken up after that. My left elbow and forarms hurt - with a huge blood clot under my biceps. There was a bulge in the forearm - the conclusion was that it could be a hairline fracture. Riding was sealed up. And we walked back. I felt really depressed about the silly mistake, but Sandeep always kept me going. Swallowed the hard pill and decided to walk the last 12 kms to the glacier the next day. If we had cycled, we would have been the first Indian's to reach the glacier on selfpowered two wheels.
(you would'nt believe me if i told you that a guy, possibly from Delhi, had actually motorcycled this route over 20 years ago. There is hardly any smooth section today, wonder what the condition was two decades ago.)
Early next day, we left for the glacier. The pain was horrendous, and I was gritting my teeth all along. The air was crisp and eerily silent as we began.The climb was tough but again the scenery changed with Rhododendrons and mini bugyals. What amazed me were these Himalayan Choughs. The first time i had seen them. Around 50 - 60 of them would climb to the top of the mountain cliffs and then dive bomb and zig zag each other. All the while calling in a very uncrowy kind of a way. We reached the famed Pindari Baba's temple. He served us tea and biscuits. Sandeep and Nimmu carried on later to Zero point, the foot of the glacier (or whatever is left of it) where the trail finally ends. Baba in the mean time made us tasty and healthy (protien rich) Khichdi. He was a very knowledgeble man, who set up this refuge many decades ago. He has travelled througout India and is devout in his hospitality. We talked about global warming, Bengali travelers, the Internet age and so on. We left by 2pm and reached back Dwali by nightfall. Things were looking up and then came Jimmy. The Mongrel stayed with us that night and kept us company all the way back to Dhakurithe next day. He was always there leading the pack, waiting on us, and often indicating the route. I had hired an extra guide to push my cycle back to Loharkhet, Sandeep rode on.
We took another day to get a personal vehicle to Nainital and then a luxury bus onward to Delhi. I booked the first train and headed on to Chennai.
It was unfortunate the way the trip got shortend, but I enjoyed the company with my riding buddy, the locals and nature, like never before. It was a really cherished experience, rough yet comfortable. Never before had i ever seen so many stars...(even a shooting star on the last night). Never felt so close to the himalayas and its snowy peaks. Never before had I been so satisfied with modest dinners - of just roasted potatoes and soup. Never before had I felt so brave in the dark. And most of all this overwhelming feeling all over me wanting to kiss the ground and thank it for playing host. Given a chance i would do it again, and again every year.
Back in the city, none of my pants fit and I was smiling. I learnt a big lesson on this trip and it took two full months to recover from a minor case of nerve damage. I am already eager to go there this 'SUMMER' when the flowers will be all bloom. Here's a short compilation video I made in my spare time.
Cheers
